How to Make Jollof Rice

THIS ARTICLE IS ADAPTED FROM THE JUNE 1, 2024, EDITION OF GASTRO OBSCURA’S FAVORITE THINGS NEWSLETTER. YOU CAN SIGN UP HERE.

If you've been paying attention to the growth in interest in West African culinary traditions, you've probably noticed the increased popularity of Jollof rice. The name derives from one of the kingdoms of my Ancestors, the Wolof peoples living in modern-day Senegal, Gambia, and Mauritania.

The Wolof have a great reputation as traders, artisans, musicians, and cooks, forming along with their neighbors the heart of the culture and cuisine of Senegambia. From this corner of West Africa came about a fourth of the enslaved brought to America, whose descendants included the likes of Benjamin Banneker, Frederick Douglass, Omar Ibn Said, and Phillis Wheatley. However this same region has produced in our contemporary era chefs like Pierre Thiam and Fatmata Binta who join artists like Akon and Youssou N'Dour in furthering Senegal's cultural legacy.

Jollof rice, or benachin, may be from Senegambia, but it spread through Wolof and Mande traders and unfortunately due to colonialism. Different countries have different names and styles of preparation to match. The fiercest rivalry may be between Ghana and Nigeria. However, Jollof-style rice became the grandmother of Lowcountry red rice as well as jambalaya and rice from Mexico, Brazil, and various spaces in the Caribbean. All you need is tomato, onion, pepper, and spices.

This is just a basic palette, but feel free to add my West African spice mix (salt-less) from Spice Tribe's Cooking Gene collection for some more authentic flavors.

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